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Vitamin C derivatives were invented to address two things — instability and non-irritant purpose. L-ascorbic acid form of vitamin C (which is the purest from of vitamin C) is pretty unstable and can potentially cause skin irritation due to its acidic nature, which led to the invasion of vitamin C derivatives which are known to be stable and less irritating — Ascorbyl Glucoside is one of them. Keep reading to learn more about Ascorbyl glucoside
What Is Ascorbyl Glucoside?
Ascorbyl glucoside is a stable form of vitamin C, which is combined with sugar glucose to enhance its stability due to the fact that L-ascorbic acid is a notoriously-unstable form of vitamin C that often breaks down when exposed to air and sunlight.
The glucose is derived from a natural starch source, such as rice, while the vitamin C portion is synthetic. When properly formulated and absorbed into skin, it breaks down to ascorbic acid (L-ascorbic acid), also known as pure vitamin C.
That’s to say, once absorbed, its gradually breakdown to vitamin C, creating what’s known as a reservoir effect within skin. This leads to longer-lasting benefits.
Once ascorbyl glucoside is absorbed into the skin, an enzyme called alpha-glucosidas breaks it down into l-ascorbic acid. This is why you then get all those awesome vitamin C effects such as skin-brightening and wrinkle-smoothing, but, in this case, because it undergone a conversion process, it’s much less likely to cause irritation and less potent to L-ascorbic acid, but still renders effective antioxidant and anti-aging benefits to the skin.
Ascorbyl glucoside is widely compatible with other cosmetic ingredients. Unlike the tight pH range which L-ascorbic acid needs to be effective on skin, ascorbyl glucoside works between a pH of 5–8, with the lower end of this spectrum considered better due to being a close match to the normal pH range of skin.
Skin Benefits Of Ascorbyl Glucoside.
Ascorbyl glucoside possesses same skin benefits as all forms of vitamin C, but being one of vitamin C derivatives, it’s less potent than pure vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) but yet, delivers vitamin C antioxidant and anti-aging benefits to the skin.
Just like all forms of vitamin C, Ascorbyl Glucoside:
Promotes Collagen Production.
Collagen gives your skin its firm structure and texture, when collagen production level depletes, it becomes a problem — which gives room to skin aging signs like wrinkles, fine lines and saggy skin.
Ascorbyl glucoside form of vitamin C helps promotes collagen production by enhancing fibroblast (the cell that creates collagen) to produce more collagen which in turn promotes skin elasticity and firmness [1].
Protects Against Environmental Stressors.
Ascorbyl glucoside helps protect the skin from environmental aggressors like ultraviolet light and pollution which creates free radicals in the skin [1].
Free radicals are inherently unstable molecules that damage cells, promoting skin dullness, wrinkles, and even cancers. By scavenging these free radicals, Ascorbyl glucoside form of vitamin C protects the skin, keeping it healthy and improving visible signs of aging.
Brightens Discoloration:
Ascorbyl glucoside not only enhances your skin’s appearance by brightening your complexion but also target and fades off hyperpigmentation such as brown spots, dark spots, sun spots and even acne scars by blocking the pathway of pigment synthesis [2].
How To Use Ascorbyl Glucoside.
Ascorbyl glucoside can be found in most over-the-counter water-based skincare formulations such as serums, creams or moisturizers.
It can be applied both morning (AM) and night (PM). It’s also safe to use in conjunction with skin care actives, such as alpha and beta hydroxy acids, retinoids, and SPF.
Unlike L-ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside will not exfoliate or irritate the skin. It is well tolerated by sensitive skin type. Also unlike regular pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), it can be used in high doses, and stay for months without oxidizing – so far it doesn’t come in contact with heat or direct sunlight.
Ascorbyl Glucoside Side Effects.
Although there hasn’t been any researched side effects associated with ascorbyl glucoside, but still, it is an active ingredient for sure, so you can always test out a small amount elsewhere on your skin to make sure you can tolerate it before commencing application.
Best Products With Ascorbyl Glucoside.
The Ordinary Ascorbyl Glucoside Solution 12%
Here is 12% ascorbyl glucoside concentration in a serum formulation to offer antioxidant-benefits to the skin, brightens the skin tone and reduces signs of aging. This budget-friendly product comes in a UV-protective packaging to protect content from UV exposure. Read full review here.
The Inkey List 15% Vitamin C + EGF Serum.
A product from The Inkey List brand, containing a whopping 15% ascorbyl glucoside to promote skin luminosity and improve skin texture, in combination with EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor) which helps to stimulate skin cells to regenerate, producing rejuvenated, youthful skin.
The Inkey List Tranexamic Acid Night Treatment.
This formula pairs 2% Ascorbyl glucoside with 2% Tranexamic acid — a melanin inhibiting ingredient and 2% Acai berry extract — to promote even skin tone, to deliver tripple-dose of reducing melanocytes (melanin producing cell) thereby minimizing melanin production which goes a long way to improve skin complexion and the visible appearance of hyperpigmentation.
Possible Questions & Answers.
Q: How are vitamin C derivatives derived?
A: Vitamin C derivatives are made by mixing L-ascorbic acid with other chemical. This process changes the nature of vitamin C from being acidic to alkaline or from water-soluble to oil-soluble or both.
UP NEXT: Here’s Another Vitamin C Derivative Worth Knowing About – Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate.
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