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If you’re a skincare lover you should be very conversant with the almighty vitamin C — the all-known antioxidant vitamin that fend-off free radicals, fight skin aging-signs, improve skin tone and keep the skin in good shape.
It shouldn’t also be a new thing to you that vitamin C has derivatives, which are being derived or gotten from L-ascorbic acid — the most potent form of vitamin C. I can bet that you haven’t heard of Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, maybe probably because it’s a new vitamin C derivative, without vast studies about it — but trust the fact when i say, this form of vitamin C penetrates even better than other vitamin C derivatives. Keep reading to learn more.
What Is Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate?
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is a very stable and oil-soluble derivative of vitamin C. By oil-soluble, it means, it can dissolve in oil and also be used or found in oil-based skincare formulations.
It’s made by mixing Vitamin C with Palmitic acid.
Palmitic acid is one of several fatty acids used in skin care as an emollient or moisturiser. It’s a saturated fat, it accounts for 21 to 30% of human fat tissue (fat). It is found in both animals and plants, mainly from palm oil.
Fatty acids are oily molecules that combine with glycerol to make the many fats found in nature.
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate readily converts to L-ascorbic acid when it gets into the skin, this conversion process makes it less potent as compared to pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), but still renders effective antioxidants-benefits to the skin.
Research study has it that ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate penetrate deeper into the skin dermis than other forms of vitamin C derivatives.
The reason for this is because — oil penetrates the skin better than water. Therefore, anything water-based needs oil for better penetration.
Our skin has a lipid (oil) protective layer that keeps moisture in and germs out, called “acid mantle“. For the fact that ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is oil-soluble makes it penetrate deeper and faster into the skin because of its oil-soluble nature, which gives it a good delivery system to penetrate the skin.
Skin Benefits Of Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate.
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate offers the same skin benefits just like pure vitamin C ( L-ascorbic acid), except for the fact that it isn’t as potent as L-ascorbic acid (same accounts with other vitamin C derivatives). But the good penetration potentials of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate makes it travels deep into the skin to establish its skin-benefits without causing skin sensitivity or sensitization unlike L-ascorbic acid.
L-ascorbic acid form of vitamin C is notorious for causing skin sensitization and irritation due to its acidic nature, which makes it not suitable or recommended for people with senstive skin. Vitamin C derivatives are known to be gentle on the skin without giving rise to increased skin sensitivity or irritation — which makes them a good choice for people with sensitive skin or people who wants to enjoy vitamin C skin-benefits without increased skin sensitivity.
Just like all forms of vitamin C, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate:
Protects Against Environmental Stressors.
As a powerful antioxidant, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate main function is protecting the skin from enviromental aggressors like ultraviolet light and pollution which creates free radicals in the skin.
Free radicals are inherently unstable molecules that damage cells, promoting skin dullness, wrinkles, and even cancers. By scavenging these free radicals, vitamin C protects the skin, keeping it healthy and improving visible signs of aging.
Enhances Collagen Production.
Collagen gives your skin its firm structure and texture, when collagen production level depletes, it becomes a problem — which gives room to skin aging signs like wrinkles, fine lines and saggy skin.
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate form of vitamin C helps promotes collagen production by enhancing fibroblast (the cell that creates collagen) to produce more collagen which in turn promotes skin elasticity and firmness.
Brightens Discoloration.
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate not only enhances your skin’s appearance by brightening your complexion but also target and fades off hyperpigmentation such as brown spots, dark spots, sun spots and even acne scars by blocking the pathway of pigment synthesis.
How To Use Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate.
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate can be found in most over-the-counter oil-based skincare formulations such as serums, creams or moisturizers.
It can be applied both morning (AM) and night (PM). It’s also safe to use in conjunction with skin care actives, such as alpha and beta hydroxy acids, retinols (and retinoids), and also SPF.
Unlike L-ascorbic acid, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate will not exfoliate or irritate the skin. It is well tolerated by sensitive skin type. Also unlike regular pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), it can be used in high doses, and for up to eighteen months without oxidizing.
Side Effects Of Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate.
It’s safe for most skin types, but in rare cases, people who have hypersensitive skin may experience minor irritation, such as allergic contact dermatitis — this research study authenticates the fact.
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is also safe to pair with other skin care actives, including alpha and beta hydroxy acids, retinols (and retinoids), and sunscreens, (same applies to other vitamin C derivatives too).
Best Products With Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate.
The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F.
A budget-friendly formulation from one of the most popular and decent skincare brand — The Ordinary. This formula combines Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate — for antioxidants benefits, with Vitamin F — which is known to soothe some inflammatory skin conditions such as dermatitis and psoriasis as it helps to reduce inflammation as well as regulate healthy cell function, and excessive water loss. Also contains jojoba seed oil and squalane for increased skin hydration.
BIOSSANCE Squalane + Vitamin C Rose Oil.
Here’s another rich cocktail of Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (which share similarities with Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate) and squalane oil. While vitamin C offer antioxidant benefits and brightens the skin, and prevents future discoloration, squalane oil sees that the skin is optimally hydrated. This serum is a double antioxidant hitter, a hydrator and skin brightener.
Possible Questions & Answers.
Q: Is ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate form of vitamin C same as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate?
A: Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is not the same as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. While there are similar in several ways, their molecular structures differ, (They have the same number of elements. but are arranged differently) with ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate being more stable and more skin-friendly based on the extensive research data it has.
Q: How are vitamin C derivatives derived?
A: Vitamin C derivatives are made by mixing L-ascorbic acid with other chemical. This process changes the nature of vitamin C from being acidic to alkaline or from water-soluble to oil-soluble or both.
UP NEXT: Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate For Skin – Here’s Everything You Need To Know.
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