An Honest Review On The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Vitamin C Serum

I have used a lot of vitamin C serums from different brands, just to put them to the test, to see for sure how they react on my skin, while I give a well tailored and honest review about my experience with them. 

Timeless, SkinCeuticles, Geek & Gorgeous C-Glow, and Cerave Skin Renewing vitamin C  serum has been one of my most loved brands of L-ascorbic acid-based vitamin C serums. 

While The Ordinary Ascorbyl Glucoside Serum, The Ordinary Ethylated Ascorbic Acid Serum and FaceTheory Regena C20 Serum has been one of my best serums when it comes to vitamin C derivatives. And this time, I have decided to give my honest review on an oil-soluble vitamin C derivative which I have been using every day for four (4) weeks — The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate — a 20% vitamin C derivative solution in Vitamin F.

For the sake of this content and to provide a precise and honest review, I used this oil-soluble vitamin C serum diligently for four (4) weeks, both morning (AM) and night (PM). 

So if you’ve been longing to use this serum but want to read an authentic review about it before plunging ahead to purchase, then you’re on the right page. 

Oops, this is where the confusion sets in about The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Vitamin C Serum.

The product title says “Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate“, while on the ingredients list, it says “Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate“. 

I mailed Deciem (The Ordinary), asking them for clarification to clear the confusion regarding their Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Vitamin C Serum, and below was their response: 

“Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate refer to the same ingredient. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is the INCI name our supplier has chosen to identify their material by”

This got me more bemused, because after a thorough research, I came to discover that although both Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate shares the same similarities in several ways, but their molecular structures differ, (They have the same number of elements. but are arranged differently).

But because Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate was listed on the ingredients list, I assume that’s the ingredient contained in this product.

What Is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate?

To cut it short and sweet, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is a very stable and oil-soluble derivative of vitamin C. By oil-soluble, it means, it can dissolve in oil and also be used or found in oil-based skincare formulations. 

According to research study, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate penetrate deeper into the skin dermis than other forms of vitamin C derivatives, due to its oil-soluble nature which gives it a good delivery system to penetrate the skin.

Oil penetrates the skin better than water. Therefore, oil-based skincare products tend to penetrate the skin better. That also implies that anything water-based needs oil for better penetration. 

This form of vitamin C isn’t acidic in nature and therefore won’t cause any sort of exfoliation (like L-ascorbic acid does) and won’t cause skin sensitization or irritation. That’s why it’s recommended for people with sensitive skin who can’t deal with the L-ascorbic acid form of vitamin C.

The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F.

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This formula combines tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate — for antioxidants benefits, with Vitamin F — which is known to soothe some inflammatory skin conditions such as dermatitis and psoriasis as it helps to reduce inflammation as well as regulate healthy cell function, and excessive water loss. Also contains jojoba seed oil and squalane for increased skin hydration. 

The prominent ingredients used in this formulation will be briefly explained below:

• Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate: A stable and oil-soluble form of vitamin C, which penetrates deep into the skin (more than other forms of vitamin C) to establish its skin benefits by fending-off external aggressors, diminish skin aging-signs and Improve skin appearance. It can be used in a high percentage without drawbacks and won’t cause increased skin sensitivity or irritation unlike the L-ascorbic acid form of vitamin C. 

• Vitamin F: A skin conditioning vitamin and fat which helps soothe skin irritation and inflammation such as dermatitis and psoriasis as well as regulate healthy cell function. In skincare, vitamin F is used to represent linoleic acid, an essential fatty acid that is rich in omega-6. Fats are also known as lipids, and they’re incredibly important when it comes to maintaining a strong, healthy stratum corneum (the protective outer layer of the skin).

• Jojoba Seed Oil: Jojoba oil is a humectant ingredient. This means that it works to seal your skin with a protective barrier to keep it from losing moisture, thereby increasing hydration and moisture retention [1].

• Squalane Oil:  Squalane is a plant derived or hydrogenated oil which is used in its pure form or in cosmetic formulations for moisturizing, hydrating and soothing the skin.

Packaging.

The Ordinary ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate vitamin C serum comes in a UV-protective packaging to protect product from sunlight. 

Texture.

The Ordinary ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate has a super lightweight oily texture, which sinks into the skin upon application. 

The oil has a dry texture which makes it super lightweight that it absorbs quickly without leaving greasy residue behind. 

Colour.

The colour of The Ordinary ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate serum is completely clear (just like water). 

Size.

It comes in a 30ml sized bottle. 

Ingredients.

Coconut Alkanes, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Ethyl Linoleate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract, Squalane. You can read how to read skincare ingredients lists. 

My Honest Review On The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Vitamin C Serum.

Effect On Skin Tone. 

First of all, I’ll say I love the fact that this oil readily sinks into the skin, which makes my oily skin love it. 

After using this oil-soluble vitamin C derivative everyday for four (4) weeks, I’ve come to notice minimal brightening but more of a glow. My skin wasn’t that bright as I expected or anticipated of this product, but it definitely had a beautiful glow, just like the kind you see when the sun is rising. 

So, I’ll say yes, it did impact on my skin tone, but not much of an impact. But when it comes to revitalizing skin radiance, you can count on this product. So if you have dull and tired-looking skin, do well to give this product a shot as your skin will thank you for it. 

Effect On Skin Texture.

My skin texture Improved a bit, but it isn’t something I was impressed about, although there was an impact, but minimal. But when I combined it with tretinoin 0.1%, the result was unmatched. It was massive!!. 

Skin texture was as smooth as an egg and looked dewy. Tretinoin has been my holy grail when it comes to tackling skin texture, acne and minimizing skin aging-signs. Pairing these two products gave my skin a badass texture, and for the fact ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate vitamin C is oil-based makes it even work well with my tretinoin for an impressive result because there wasn’t any sort of irritation due to the fact my skin moisture-barrier was protected by the oil-based product which limited tretinoin penetration and increased skin hydration. 

In Conclusion.

I’ll say this serum is worth giving a shot if you want to have beautiful glowy skin. 

You can pair with AHAs or BHA or even retinoids (example: tretinoin or retinol) for an improved skin texture and more impact on anti-aging effect on the skin. 

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is safe to pair with other skin care actives, including alpha and beta hydroxy acids, retinol, and SPF, (same applies to other vitamin C derivatives too). 

Don’t forget to always wear your sunscreen to protect your skin from UV rays exposure and also perform a patch test prior to commencing full product application to test for allergies. You can read how to properly apply sunscreen. 

Example: I use The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate on Monday night with tretinoin, use it on Tuesday night without tretinoin, use it again on Wednesday night with tretinoin. Just like that. 

In summary, I used The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate both morning and night, while I used tretinoin every-other-day at night time only. 

What I Like About The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F.

• Easy to use.

• Super lightweight (sinks in quickly into the skin). 

• Non-comedogenic (won’t clog pores)

• Mild on the skin. 

• Comes well Packaged.

• Comes in UV-protective packaging

• Pocket-friendly.

• Fragrance-free.

What I Dislike About The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F.

• I have no dislike about this product.

Possible Questions & Answers

Q: How did you use The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate?

A: I apply the serum after cleansing and hydrating, before my moisturizer. I simply apply 2-3 drops on my face (a little goes a long way), gently massage till fully absorbed before sealing in with my moisturizer. 

On the days I apply it with tretinoin, I apply the serum first, after cleansing and hydrating, before applying a pea-size amount of tretinoin, then follow up with my moisturizer.  

Q: Can people with oily skin use The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate?

A: Though this is oil based, I think this will work for a variety of skin types. It will add extra hydration for dry skin types and if you are oily, it helps to replenish your skin without greasiness. But if you’re concerned it may aggravate your oily and acne-prone skin, you can use other vitamin C derivatives from The Ordinary brand, I recommend The Ordinary Ascorbyl Glucoside. 

Q: Can this serum be applied morning and night?

A: Yes. The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate vitamin C serum can be applied both morning and night. Vitamin C helps protect the skin against free radicals (while you explore your outdoor activities) and also helps strengthen the barrier protection of your sunscreen (during the day). While it delivers antioxidant and skin repair potentials to your skin at night while you sleep.

Q: Why can’t I use tretinoin everyday and also during the day?

A: Using tretinoin everyday increases chances of incurring inflammatory irritation, while using during the day increases skin’s sensitivity to the sun which can be deleterious if sun protection measures aren’t taken. Therefore, it’s best advised to use tretinoin every-other-day (to give skin time to get used to it) and limit use at night time only. 

Disclaimer: This is a personal experience with The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F, you may have a whole different experience as skin type differs, so as result differs too.

UP NEXT I Also Put The Naturuim Vitamin C Complex To The Test Too & I Was Impressed.